The Great Disappeared Pubs of Old Central Leeds

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The Great Disappeared Pubs of Old Central Leeds

By Pete Wood

Sometimes, in fantasising mood, I conjure up my ultimate night of booze and debauchery:  the venue is Leeds City Centre and the decade is the 1890s –‘The Naughty Nineties’. I’m starting off up Briggate for my night on the town. From The Royal Public House Yard comes the sound of hooves on cobbles. There are horses steaming and black and ready for off. Merrymaking floats out on the night air: a tinkling piano, raucous laughter, the occasional breaking of glass. Inside, revellers in ‘Billycock’ hats and ‘bum starver’ jackets, swill back the ale, while their ladies polish off the gin.

            Alas it’s only make believe, in reality pubs like that are long gone and in their place: ‘plastic palaces’ with contemporary music played very loud and the flashing lights that are necessary to draw in the twenty-first century youth with their vast discretionary spending power. City centre sites now need money a plenty to survive. Well, I’m far too old to enjoy their style of pub, but unfortunately, not old enough to have enjoyed the true sawdust and spittoon era. Fortunately, there was an intermediate era – a good night was still to be had in the fifties sixties and even the seventies in the great old ‘mucky pubs’ of Central Leeds; where there were still colourful characters

enough to light up a room. I loved those ‘mucky pubs, in fact I never felt as though I’d really been out unless it took in Central Leeds. Even my stag night was a crawl around my favourite joints.

            Gone now, regrettably, are The Royal in Lower Briggate and McConnell’s with its barrel filled window. Gone too the round Wine lodge in City Square, The Mitre, King Edward, King Charles, Robin Hood, Nags Head, Dolphin, Scotsman,  Market Tavern and The Marquis of Granby. The Star and Garter near the Corn Exchange is an amusement arcade and the Central Market, Golden Cock, Hope and Anchor, Brougham’s Arms and Yorkshire Hussar have either gone or changed their names, some several times over and with the changing of their names has come a changing of their special character too. Not all is completely lost, at the time of writing those left of a rapidly diminishing bunch are: The Whip, bless it, where Woodbine Lizzie used to stand by its three stumps and where I first saw a ceiling spinning round after sampling barley wine. The Palace, The Duncan, Royal Oak’ The Regent, Scarborough Taps and The General Elliot totter on. The Ship, Whitlock’s, Piccadilly Bar, and the Pack Horse were up ginnels and never quite aspired to my favourite category of: ‘mucky pub’. The Headrow pubs and above were out of my frame.

            Through the years I think The Star and Garter became my absolute favourite; you certainly saw life in the ‘Star’. For a start there seemed to be three or four different sexes in there, I was never quite sure who was supposed to do what to whom. Then there were the ‘ladies of the night’ plying their trade, they were a lively bunch; always laughing: their antics made the pub a fun place. Mingled in were the old ‘down and outs’ – old kids who had been in there drinking since the pub opened. By the time I would be going in there at nine or ten o’clock they would have an inch of ash on the end of their cigs and beginning to fall asleep. They would nod and nod, getting lower and lower until they heads would finally touch the table, over would go the beer and the glasses would shatter. The ‘star’ had a barmaid who had developed a technique for dealing with this; she was only a slip of a lass but she couldn’t half shift them on. She would grab them by the collar and flick the stool away with her foot, then using the momentum of their fall she would drag them out backwards to the door and then bump. Bump down the two steps onto the pavement of Call Lane. I can recall two bodies still lying there one night as I was trying to enter the pub.

            Often there would be undercover police in there on the look out for stolen goods or trying to locate the whereabouts of some rogue or other. You would hear a commotion and they would have someone spread-eagled against the wall being searched; accompanied by a great commotion from the recipient.

            There was a an old kid who collected glasses, I’ll swear he broke more than he got back to the bar – there would be a c-r-a-s-h and a couple of minutes c-r-a-s-h again. No one seemed to notice or worry about it, the floor was always swimming in ale and blood and you could feel broken glass forever grinding underfoot. I saw a lesbian give a guy a crack who was getting too familiar with her friend. Another night I went in there and it was so crushed there was nowhere to stand but I could see there was plenty of room at the far end, so I pushed my way through, folk were looking at me strangely, when I got to the space at the front I realised why; a naked woman cavorting about there, then I had to try and push my way back. Perhaps the strangest sight I ever saw there was a bloke having his hair set on fire. It happened like this: there was a couple of chaps talking to each other, pints in hands – I saw this woman pass behind them and then suddenly his hair was alight, flaring right up to the ceiling. The funniest thing was he didn’t seem to notice, he continued to talk to his friend: ‘rhubarb – rhubarb’ etc. and there was his hair actually blackening the ceiling. Finally his mate must have noticed and I imagine he said something like: ‘Hi up Joe, your hair’s on fire!’ Anyway they managed to put it out between them, he seemed no worse for wear in fact, incredibly, although his hair seemed to have been burning for a considerable time it did not seem to have been noticeably consumed. ‘It’s that bloody woman!’ he said finally and chased out after her into the street.

            Surprisingly I never found the place to be dangerous. If you didn’t cause trouble, no one would trouble you and you could observe to your heart’s content. The punters were streetwise to an amazing degree so much so it made you feel naïve. And there was total equality, if Prince Philip had gone in there for a pint or even the Queen they would have had to wait their turn at the bar like everyone else.

            To round off the evening was to have fish and chips from the Crown Fisheries, eaten in alcoholic fuzz, out of the paper, on the Corn Exchange steps – observing every species of humanity rolling home up Boar Lane in jovial state. And that old blackened Corn Exchange observes on too and if those old Victorians couldn’t shock him – then I’m sure neither will me or you.

(Unfortunately even more of these great old pubs are ‘mort’ since the writing of this piece.)

 

Following on from Eric Sanderson’s picture question (the alternative ‘Slip’) which he now reveals is actually in Harrogate – here is another poser. East Leeds veterans will surely recognise this magnificent building now seemingly under renovation for something other than its original use. But can you remember where it is? I bet no one will remember the name of the side street?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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57 Responses to “The Great Disappeared Pubs of Old Central Leeds”

  1. Barbara fairburn Says:

    Love your article!I am researching Sussex street cross green a property called perseverance building 1894 also the Sussex arms pub which was on the same street any help you could give me would be so appreciated thanks Barbara!

  2. Barbara fairburn Says:

    I also remember the pubs you have named especially the star and garter and general Elliott so loved the atmosphere,love Leeds city centre,keep writing it’s stiring great memories for me!the regents still going!now that is an eye opener aw!bless them all who graced their pint pots of real ale.

  3. Eric Sanderson Says:

    Great trip down Memory Lane Pete. I remember all those long gone pubs. The Market Tavern you mention is probably the one on Duncan St, opposite the Star & Garter and another which saw plenty of “action”, I think was also called the Market , but known universally as “The Madhouse” , down by the side of the Market building towards the Eastgate side.That was some pub which I’m sure you remember.

  4. brenda Says:

    You’re right, Eric. The Market Tavern was known as the ‘Madhouse’. Its reputation enhanced by a guy having his nose bit off in there.m

  5. Barbara fairburn Says:

    I knew the guy who had his nose bitten off! What an absolute mad man,the only way he could be stopped from killing someone was by having his nose bitten off! it was terrible he just walked out of the pub and walked in to the Elliott.

  6. petr-wood@talktalk.net Says:

    There was one great character that I might well have included in the tale if I had remembered at the time. This was a great old Leeds character by the name of Harry Bendon. Who remebers Harry? In his early years Harry was a good singer and and he would sing around the Leeds pubs smart in his big camel coat. Then he would disgrace himself by farting into the microphone or something and get the sack. But he was a real character and always cheerful and he could be seen playing his accordian in the Leeds City Centre. There is one iconic tale of how when he was working as a window cleaner he put his ladder up to a bus stnding in the Corn Exchange and proceeded to clean clean the topdeck windows. Harry went down and down until he was living rough on the streets. His accordian gave way to a concertine but his voice was always in full song. One night I was in the Scotsman pub – opposite the kirkgate entrance to the market. An old lass was sat in the corner and an old lad came in and sidled up to her I don’t know what he suggested to he but suddenly she got up and slapped him across the face and walked out. I thought that was the end of it but about ten minutes later she she returned with two policemen. They had the pair of ’em in the middle of the floor giving the guy a grilling and I though they were going to arrest the old guy. Suddenly from noware Harry Bendon sprang up in the middle of them and began to play his concertina, which made them all disolve into laughter and they all went on their merry way. Poor Harry was finally found dead, he’d been sleeping in an old warehouse. But were are the characters like harry now?

  7. Barbara fairburn Says:

    I don’t remember the guy you speak of!but remember Friday nights in the Elliott when all the shop lifters would come in and you could buy joints of meat!!! And I always bought my meat for the week and used to send it home in a taxi,haha! So funny the taxi drivers were amused,and I had my weeks food bought,great days!I know it was naughty but that was how it was everyone knew to go to the Elliott Fridays including the police?

  8. Eric Sanderson Says:

    Pete – I remember Harry Bendon from the late 50’s, early 60’s. I’m fairly certain he appeared at the “Slip” on a few occasions and he was, without doubt, a bit of a head case with his outrageous behaviour but he also went down well with the Slip clientele.

  9. Audrey Sanderson Says:

    No one’s had a guess where Pete’s photo was taken. I have a pretty good idea but I’ll wait until someone else has a guess.
    What about the Robin hood Pub? By mistake I once went in there with a bunch of women. Only once!!!

    • Barbara fairburn Says:

      Oh my!the Robin hood that was next to another pub which I cannot remember the name of?now that was a den alright,my dad always went in there after working on the building sites in Leeds!tough job,it was wild,bet you didn’t stay long Audrey?I am delighted to have found this site as I love chatting about the past,and all the stories have bought back such memories for me,the guy I lived with in the 80s introduced me to these pubs and I totally loved it,such a laugh we all had,and the characters,does anyone remember Peter the shoe? And yes he used to be known for dressing very well,and stealing shoes from marks and Spencer,he would come into the Elliott pub wearing his big coat and looking a proper gent,to reveal at least 6 pairs of shoes,usually all the same size feet,as he was always worse for wear when on his shopping trips to marks and sparks,I remember once having to pick a pair of shoes up from his home in chapel town,and was upset to find that he lived in a hostel,he must have been somebody in his youth as the way he would dress suggests that he was a true gent,very polite and generous,he would sell you the shoes then spend the money buying you drinks,oh how I wish I could go back.

  10. peterwwood Says:

    The two pubs adjacent to The Robin Hood on Vicar Lane were, The Dolphin and The Nags Head

    • Barbara fairburn Says:

      Of course!the nags head do you remember the Irish land lord!forget his name,I just remember he was an alcoholic!I know surprise,when he left the nags poor man looked awful when I saw him in the swan with 2 nicks at woodhouse,sad what happens to people who start out ok.

  11. peterwwood Says:

    ‘Swan with two nicks’ That’s a talking point in itself I have had many an arguement about it. For a start because there was two swans with necks entwined on the pub sigb – that it was actually ‘The Swan with Two Necks’ but it wasn’t it was as Barbara says The Swan with Two Nicks. So what are ‘Two Nicks’ .Some say it is the two cygnets following on begind but I have also heard that ‘two nicks, are nicks made in the swan’s neck to show it belongs to the queen. What do you think?

    • Barbara fairburn Says:

      I think you are right about the nicks! I too would always tell people that it’s two nicks! But they were usually too drunk to understand or even care! Just as long as the beer flowed,my ex who’s father was a regular in the swan,shied me a picture of the pub from the inside it was truly beautiful all the carved wood partisions as back in the 40s they were a popular feature for privacy,I also remember as a kid in the 50s the inside of the swan as my dad spent many a Saturday afternoon in there,after working on the building sites,now the brewery sold it off and yes is flats for students!and yes they have made it look so scruffy,what a shame!but the breweries have been brutal in there closure of our pubs,and also placed big selling prices on them,I am disgusted in all these coperate games the top 10% play in thus country,now I am truly on a rant!look at how the council have allowed all the Victorian buildings to decay only to pull them down,so they don’t have to spend money on them!instead they can inflate their expences,go on lavish holidays,and eat at the best restaurants,and not forgetting sending their children to private schools! To keep them away from the very people that bloody pay for it all! I know I get pretty wound up on this topic,always have,and at election time I have many an argument with the candidates of each party,as they grovel and crawl for our votes!shame on them,well I do feel so much better for that I welcome views of what I have written.

  12. Eric Sanderson Says:

    I have a feeling that the ROBIN HOOD pub on Vicar Lane later became The Duchess of York.

  13. Audrey Sanderson Says:

    Well Eric, we have the same surname and not related but we have the same sense of humour. The changed name of The Robin Hood gave me a laugh to start my day here in Oz.

  14. Audrey Sanderson Says:

    No one has had a guess where the photo is so I’ll give it a go. I think it is a building on Pontefract Lane, just below the Princess picture house. I think it was a chapel when I was a child.

  15. Eric Sanderson Says:

    Audrey – that sounds like a very good guess to me. I’ll go along with that too.
    Eric

  16. Douglas Says:

    Loved the story of the pubs and all the responses generated. But just a bit sad I missed experiencing most of them. Except for a few end-of-year exam celebrations I only had a few odd pints here and there before migrating to Oz at age 20. I do remember Woodbine Lizzie though. Thanks for the reminiscences, keep them coming

    • Barbara fairburn Says:

      The building I pass each day on my way to Sussex street!upper accommodation road! I will get the street name and post it,it looks like it was an old school?hope I am in the right place,as for the student now in oz!these old pubs were not popular with the student fraternity,the pubs in Hyde park Leeds 6 were though! The eldon,the packhorse,the bricklayers arms,and the famous Fenton,I frequented them all,I worked in the Hyde park pub at the age of 19 and that was a real experience as in those days the mild and bitter pumps were on,and the tap room was amazing,I had to do a shift each week and the guys that were there everyday getting plastered were so funny,the landlord ted Carroll was an extra for television,as he had a crooked nose from being a rugby player,he was truly a character his wife beryl was a bit of a snob!I think she hated the pub,as it wasn’t fancy enough for her,we had the Leeds playhouse actors in a lot and the ones who went on to be famous like Richard beckinsale,who sadly died very young but starred in the sitcom porridge would still visit,he was lovely,I had such a crush on him,ted moved out the Hyde pub and was at the railway pub in ilkley,his wife was well pleased!I spent a lot of time in that boozer also,oh by the way folks,I did work!so please anyone who remembers these pubs I would love to hear from you.

  17. petr-wood@talktalk.net Says:

    I loved The Eldon and The Bay Horse next door, too. I used to go all the way from Woodlesford (dodging the breathalizer) to spend a few hours in the Eldon and The Bay Horse on a Sunday night. The atmosphere was terrific. I used to like to look at the notice board and see where the Archaeology Section of the University were going to the following week. I had the notion of them doing a dig and then coming back to sink a few pints here in the pub, and think, ‘what a great life!’ You could see across the road from the window of the Eldon and sometimes you would see a lone window lit in the University where a student was burning the midniight oil and I would think, ‘I hope he has an interesting life to come, to make up for all that hard.work.’

    Give us the street names of your mystery building, Barbara. I’m sure one of the gang will recognise what it used to be.

  18. Audrey Sanderson Says:

    You must know where the Shepherd pub is Barbara if you pass Pete’s mystery building each day. I used to go in there with my Dad. I loved it because it was full of characters. Smokey, dim light but lots of laughs. My Grandma used to live in Devon Street which was near the pub.

  19. Barbara fairburn Says:

    Hi every one I haven’t had Internet for weeks! Something wrong in space I guess,I will get the street name Audrey,however as it’s been a long time since I was on here you probably know it,the shepherd pub yes I know it,but really didn’t spend a lot of time there! You used to go with your dad?I used to go to the new lands on Hyde park road with my dad,and then the chemic,and bricklayers,as my dad was polish he could drink a fair bit,my mum was Russian so she could also down her share!we had a very lively up bringing,I am still trying to find out more about the building I am renovating on Sussex street?but cannot find the time to spend at the library and the pub called the Sussex arms?both a bit of a mystery at the moment,can any one in your gang help me?

  20. Alex Says:

    If that is the chapel or Sunday School on Pontefract Lane, then the side street is Hall Place. But I don’t think this building has been identified correctly. If it was the one on Pontefract Lane, it would be set back from the road by about 30 yards – from what I remember.

  21. peterwwood Says:

    You are Correct, Alex. It is Hall Place. And the chapel IS set 20 yards back from Pontefract Lane. Thanks for leaving a comment
    Pete.

  22. peter Says:

    there was a pub called the horse and trumpet(commonly known as the nag and fart), also the white swan(commonly known as the mucky duck). I used to drink in the Hyde Park Hotel where an ex-rugby league player was the landlord Ted Carroll, he played for Hunslet and was an extra that worked on many TV shows in the sixties, as his face was full of character,

  23. Jane Anne Says:

    Can anyone tell me the name of the pub in the Merrion centre that had the white square windows that looked onto the arcade with no windows to the main road

  24. Roy Dyer Says:

    Your right the was a chapel on hall street it eventually became Youngs sweet warehouse. I used to work there in the early 70`s my first job for £5 a week .From there into the Princes cinema watch a movie then into The Shepherd for a pint at 16 years old (don`t tell anyone lol) or sometimes the Hope Inn Great days whish I could turn back the clock. Thank you all for the wonderful memories

    • peterwwood Says:

      Thanks for your comment, Roy. I have to tell you at this very moment in time they are dragging out the ‘inards’ of the Shepherd (and the Hampton) I hope they are not about to pull them down? and the Princess is a fish and chip shop

  25. Gavin jaques Says:

    My parents have lived on hall place since the early 80’s. The building was the Young’s sweet warehouse. It was converted into hall place studios. My dad was the caretaker for a few years.

  26. george lee Says:

    does anybody remember two pubs at top of Shannon street leeds9 I think they were called the Provedence and the Abercrombie

  27. peterwwood Says:

    in response to the question regarding the names of the two pubs at the top of Shannon Street. There was a pub called: The Accommodation Inn and of course the hope Inn, (still there). I think the Abercrombie was on York Road itself further down towards the Woodpecker . heard of the Providence but can’t remember where it was. The Prospect was at the top of Railway Street

    • Peter Lyon Says:

      Looking straight ahead on coming out of York Road Baths, you could clearly see the Abercrombie Pub in the distance.

  28. Peter Lyon Says:

    Remember the LLoyds Arms on Duke Street, or the Smyths Arms nearby on Garden Street?
    Peter O’Toole was known to take a drink in the Smyths when he worked at the Yorkshire Post.

  29. Geoff Says:

    I moved to Leeds in late 60s early 70s. Worked opposite the Corn Exchange. I remember going passed the Corn Exchange ( on my left ) with W H Smith Wholesale ( where I worked ) on my right. This building burnt down around 70/71. I turned right and quickly came down a track ( similar to a towpath ) and you turned off this into the Pub. Although you couldn’t see the river it was near. I went with a mate, we had been told that the Pub had plenty of loose women! But it turned out to be a gay pub with mannish women and young boys. We quickly made our exit. I understood it was the Mucky Duck ( White Swan ) but it didn’t seem to be where people describe it. Have I got the right pub? Long since disappeared when they redeveloped around the river.

    • Peter Lyon Says:

      That pub would be the New Penny, formerly called the Hope and Anchor, Landlady was Kathy Sims, sister of Barry Sims, Leeds Rugby hooker at the time, Landlord was Johnny Wilson, Kathys’ partner. Johnny was a Maori Rugby player from New Zealand.
      Unfortunately the New Penny was featured on a 1970s TV show as a Gay Bar. Travelling Glasgow Celtic supporters descended on Leeds shortly after and trashed the place. Wilson ended up in hospital for a couple of weeks after. Nice going Celtic.

  30. neal burrows Says:

    I visited leeds in the late seventies and early eighties to meet friends. We always visited Jacomellis and I have so many fine memories of that place. ‘Jaco’s’ was my fave pub and still remains to be the best pub I ever visited

  31. midiman52 Says:

    Two great pubs were The Ship up an alley off Briggate and the King Edward on King Edward st sadly the King Edward was shut however had some freat nights there before moving onto The Ship.

  32. peter Says:

    i was in the hyde park hotel one night in 1968 andwas talking to Ted Carrol, he was with an actor i recognised from many movies and tv shows, His name was Alistair Williamson, I believe he was an Australian living in England he was one of the nicest guys I ever met! the hope and anchor was a gay bar down town near the white swan.

  33. John Says:

    I went to a Professional Boxing Gym upstairs in a Pub called “The old Red House” in the mid 60s somewhere around Meadow Lane / Road, I’ve never heard or seen it mentioned and would love to see a Picture of it, I was 18 at the time and i’m 69 now, does anyone know of this Pub or has anyone got a Picture of it Please,

    • Glenn Edwards Says:

      To John. I the Red House . It was next to the police station ,it was a good old fashioned pub . We used to call in after the golden lion ,near Leeds bridge, then on to the green man ,silver cross and the junkie , happy days

  34. Jenny Owen Says:

    HIYA, I like your enjoyed reading all your info on the lost pubs and the replies, which brings me to my question does [u did give it a mention once or twice], Regent hotel on the cnr of Regent st and Skinner Lane Leeds 2. Was next door the the brewery…I lived there for a couple of years with my mum and dad they were the landlords at the time.1959 – 1962 I started school at Lovell Rd, up the hill and across the busy road and up a bit and it was on the right..It was there in early 1990s, I was visiting England [emigrated to Australia, like a few others on this post ] 🙂 my cousin took me for a look, funny how it looked so small !

    • ann Says:

      do you remember harry bendon

    • peterwwood Says:

      Hi Jenny, thanks for leaving a comment about the Regent. I have to tell you it is demolished now. I remember it as a mostly an Irish pub some great music and Irish dancing went on in there. Some of those Irish songs seemed to have about a hundred verses. The site is a carpark now. We are losing all those great pubs The Plasterers is gone too, now. Look out for July’s tale it’s by an ex pat now in Australia and her mammoth train journey. Thanks again.
      Pete Wood

  35. Glenn Edwards Says:

    Another great Iris pub was the Pointers ,used to call in when I worked at Apple yards in 1967/ 68 . The White horse was another good pub as I remember

  36. Janet Lightfoot Says:

    Can anyone remember the name of a country and western pub down a ginnel near The Three Legs on The Headrow.

    • peterwwood Says:

      To be honest Janet I can’t remember any country and westerrn pubs off the Headrow only The Three Legs, The Horse and Trumpet, the Varieties (merryboys Bar) and The Vine but of those none were Country and Western during my era. There was The Ship, The Angel , Pack Horse, Oasters, etc up ginnels but not off the Headrow and not country and western as far as I recall .

  37. Janet Lightfoot Says:

    I’m sure it wasn’t a dream as my mate and I went there many times in the early 1980’s. It was down one of those passages/ginnels next to The Three Legs. Inside all the songs they played were country and western and there was a large screen that showed westerns.

    I also remember the bar was odd. I think the floor was lower on the server’s side as I can remember you had to look down on them.
    Weird.

    • peterwwood Says:

      Are you sure you don’t mean Whitelocks? But that was down a passageway off Briggate anyway.

  38. Janet Lightfoot Says:

    It definitely wasn’t Whitelocks.

    The passage was like Rockley Hall Yard and Headrow House. When you walked through under a building there was just this pub at the back. It wasn’t a thoroughfare. To get back onto The Headrow we had to go out the same way we went in.

    There must be someone out there that remembers this pub. If you didn’t know it was there, it was easy just to pass it by.

    Maybe that’s why it disappeared, because nobody knew it was there and so closed down.

  39. Mark Wilson Says:

    Pretty certain the Country and Western pub was Big Lil’s – next to the City Varieties. Anyone remember the dreadful theme pubs that appeared in the early 80s? Stumps….Two old places long since gone were on Hyde Park Road, not far from the University: The “Little” Park and The Newlands. In the back of the Newlands all the original 1950s West Indian blokes used to play pool in their Zoot Suits and Pork-Pie hats.

  40. Mark Wilson Says:

    I did many gigs in the Regent, Skinner Lane, when it was run by Eamonn Halloran. That whole Irish/r&b music pub scene in the 70s and 80s and 90s was fantastic. People would go from music pub to music pub in Sheepscar and stay when they found a band they liked.

    I was in the Market Tavern the night it closed! Terribly sad.

  41. L Almond Says:

    Can anyone remember the name of the small pub opposite the old Rosco in Sheepscar. It used to be a favourite haunt of the ‘bin men’ at the end of a shift. It had an upper floor with pool table. I can’t find a single mention of it anywhere. We used to drink there in the 70s. before the area was demolished.

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