My peers and I can take tales of our East Leeds back to the second world war but we have Stan Pickles, who passed his memories onto me in 2011 before he was called to join that great story teller in the sky at the goodly age of 101 years to thank for tales of earlier years, mostly between the wars. I have reproduced a few of his memories here, (he had many more) I will concentrate on his tales of: The Sporting bank, The Easy Road Picture House, East End Park, Trams, Those back street Bookies, The Monkey Walks, and York Road when it was a pleasant thoroughfare.
Interestingly it seems going back to the 20s and 30s Richmond Hill School (before it was bombed) and Mount St Mary’s were our primary East Leeds School football Teams rather than Victoria and Ellerby Lane School as portrayed in a recent entry here.
The Sporting ‘Bank’
We had some popular rugby players living on the Bank. Dolly Dawson, Harry Beverley and George Tootles all played rugby for Hunslet. Afterwards Dolly Dawson was ‘Mine Host’ at the Hampton and the coach at Headingley. I can still see his face burst into a smile when we sang: ‘Get along Dolly Dawson, get along, get along.’ To the tune of the popular song, ‘I’m Heading for the Last Round up’. Dolly of course knew how to deal with the odd awkward customer or troublemaker.
Harry Beverley who helped in his father’s coal business, played cricket at East Leeds and had the great honour of playing rugby for England on tour in Australia. I think Dolly was very unlucky not to be picked for England. George Tootles, who was also a boxer, had a short career with Hunslet, finishing up almost blind due to boxing.
Doris Storey, the Olympic swimmer, was born and bred: a ‘York Road lass’. She learned her swimming at York Road Baths and came fourth in the 200 metres final. In that final, the three in front of her were using the new breast-stroke, which had just been officially accepted, while she was still swimming in the old manner. She would have had the Olympic gold if all things had been equal.
Easy Road picture House and East End Park
These two places keep cropping up in my mind and in my writing and for a long time my life revolved around them. The picture-house had a fireman we called ‘Old Gridiron’ because he sold tin lids and cooking dishes of all sizes during the day. The cinema pianist was a Mrs Scott, whose family kept the pastry shop opposite the ‘top hollows’. Then of course there was Abe, the Jewish roly-poly character: the jovial manager who was everyone’s friend. He always had a word for you about the films and a ‘Good-night, hope you enjoyed the show’ when you were leaving. He knew us all from being lads in our ‘penny rush’ days to the time we started courting and took our girls with us. Now and again he would give us trade passes, which my cousin and I were delighted to have and were able to see previews of coming films and to attend the shows at the Majestic or the Scala.
The Easy Road Picture House always closed the show with a serial, generally in fifteen weekly parts, with its tag line…to be continued next week’ after a nail biting finish. The big night was the coming of the ‘talkies’ The Broadway Melody packed the cinema to capacity each show for a week (in fact we packed in like sardines).
The local lamplighter was Mr Kendall and next door to the cinema was Mr Smallie’s blacksmith’s where we used to watch him shoe the horses and where we could take small household goods to be welded. East End Park had a little duck pond with railing around it, which was so attractive with mothers and young children throwing titbits for the swans and ducks to dart after. The flower gardens, the grass with its neatly cut verges and the lovely landscaped floral arrangements all combined to make the park a delight for everyone. All presided over by Dolphus, the ‘Parkie’ who kept a lookout for any mischief-makers and woe betide any trouble-makers. You will note I didn’t say ‘vandals’. There were no such people in that day and age.
Ho! Those Trams
There were very few cars then and the working classes depended on the tramcars for
almost all occasions, from early morning until almost midnight they took us to work and back and then were ready to take us out for enjoyment. The workpeople’s 2d and 3d returns always carried full loads across the city. My tram was the South Accommodation Road one, which carried workers to Hunslet Road for the big engineering works and to Armley and Wortley for those who worked in the mills. What would we have done without them? On Saturday afternoons, they dispatched huge crowds waiting in Briggate and Swinegate to Headingley and Elland Road and were there waiting outside the grounds to bring them back at the end of the game. It was a sight to see the poor conductor trying to get up the stairs to collect the fairs, with the stairs looking like escalators in a big store. Then it was back to town and returning for another load.
Yes, we were very dependent on them right from our young days when Mam and Dad took us out on our school holidays to places like, Roundhay Park and Kirkstall Abbey. Otley Chevin also featured in our tramcar rides, where they were engaged in carrying lots of visitors to the famous hill. There we enjoyed the day out, furnished with potted-meat sandwiches put up by Mother and pots of tea bought from the tea-hut at the hilltop.
Car number 22 just after leaving the terminus at Temple Newsam
It is no wonder the tramcar is remembered with affection, when it could be relied on never to let you down. I wish today I could once again catch a tram and see the cheerful conductor, always at our service. Thanks for the memories!
Those Back-street Bookies
Looking back I see those dismal small huts up some dark ally or a house in a back yard, which were almost the only places where one could place a bet in those far-away days in the 20s and 30s (and it was illegal of course). There were no brightly lit offices in the main streets where smiling girls were ready to take your bets and pay you out if you were lucky. It is good now to be provided with a neat betting slip and a pencil instead of the grubby bits of paper, which used to be the norm. It is good also to be able to watch your selection running on the TV. In those days between the wars the latest thing was the ticker-tape machine which tapped the results through. Our main bookie was, Charlie Tobin, up a passage in a little shack off East Street or Willie Haselgrave in an old yard in Easy Road.
The bookie’s clerk took your bets through a square hole in the wooden wall and gave you a numbered ticket to identify your bets. Many is the time we had to scamper off in all directions when the lookout gave the warning that the police were raiding. We generally had time to run through the streets to take refuge in a friendly house. I wonder how many living today remember those raids and the ‘Black Maria’ taking the punters away to Meadow Lane Police Station? The police had decoys in overalls posing as engineers or painters and then pouncing a day or two later with evidence of accepting bets.
On one such occasion a blank slip was placed in front of Willie and looking up Willie said, ‘What’s tha ‘aving?’
‘I’m ‘aving thee,’ was the reply.
Willie retorted: ‘Tha’s nor big enough for a copper!’
But back came the answer, ‘I’m big enough to cop thee!’
Yes, the luxurious betting offices of today make it a pleasure for the punters. Even a
snack and a cuppa is available. What changes indeed!
The Monkey Walks
Recollections of the ‘monkey walks’ in the 20s and 30s when young men and girls paraded up and down in innocent flirtation come to mind. Our walks began in East End Park on Sunday afternoons, when we paraded up and down the main drive past the little duck pond and beautiful landscaped flower gardens. The park was always a picture with its newly painted forms in a lovely green and the lawns a ‘sight to behold’. Always on the lookout for our favourite girls strolling by, we would sit around talking of the films we had seen the previous night at the Shaftsbury, Princess or Regent cinemas or in noisy argument about the rugby match at Headingley on Saturday afternoon. Of course, when the girls came round the conversation changed and there were other things on our minds.
Often we would make for the big area of grass near the bandstand to join the crowd lounging about and listening to the band rendering overtures from: The Maid of the Mountains, The Desert Song, The Merry Widow and all the rest of the popular music of the times. Just before we left to go home for tea we would have the last half-hour enjoying an ice cream or a bottle of pop with the girls and our last chat. On leaving the park our parting words were usually: ‘See you up the Beck tonight.’ For the ‘Monkey Walk’ up Killingbeck was our Sunday night rendezvous. It was always well packed on the paths between the Melbourne and the Lion and Lamb, boys and girls chatting up within the range of the old gas lamps. All though our teenage years we looked forward to being: ‘Up the Beck’.
A little later, we were old enough to have a few drinks in the Melbourne, where we had many a happy night. Our host, Jim Greenwood, provided a most friendly atmosphere with his walk around and his chats to the customers and would often give us his version of ‘The Girl in the Alice Blue Gown,’ which brought special applause to Jim’s delight.
Captain Miller, our Shaftsbury host, with his adopted stance of his regimental days, took a bit of stick from the lads regarding the two race horses he owned: Shaftsbury Lad and Shaftsbury Lass (They couldn’t have beaten me!), just about sums up their ability on the track, although I saw ‘the Lass’ win a three horse race at Pontefract.
York Road
From the Woodpecker to the Melbourne
Our lives revolved around York Road for apart from the friendly shops on either side the road was a very busy lively hub of everyday wants and interesting times. A lot of our time was spent on York Road with its double lines of tram track stretching the whole way. The shops were open until 8 p.m. in those days and were so friendly. I remember Harry Bart’s cut sweets and cigs was always busy, Clayton’s the furniture shop catered for all the needs of the folk who lived in the adjacent streets of back–to-back houses, Addleman’s, the outfitters, next to the Woodpecker, would fit you out completely. Jack Niman – ‘the miner’s friend’ never turned anyone away who wanted a few £s on the tick – many is the time I bought a shirt, tie and socks. York Road School with its railings almost on the road itself was filled with joyful laughter at playtime. A drink in The Hope Inn, White Horse or Shaftsbury Hotel held many happy hours for the lads. Victoria School was another landmark with more rows of shops waiting for our custom. A nice pork pie from Revill’s or a glass of ‘Vantas’, a spluttering drink drawn from a glass oval with different flavours to suit your choice (very welcome on a hot day), Mrs Dighton’s shop and the ‘Murder Shop’ so called because of their slogan, ‘We don’t cut prices – we murder them,’ sought their trade in ladies ware. The lead out from East End Park entrance came out onto York Road too. Continuing further up York Road you came to the busy part catering to feed the many workpeople at lunch time, sandwiches, fish and chips etc. For entertainment there were the cinemas: The Victoria (later the Star) and The Shaftsbury. And the pubs apart form those already mentioned: The Stag, the Dog and Gun and not forgetting our Sunday night rendezvous – The Melbourne.
It was nice to have a game of snooker now and then at Pemburton’s over the Blacksmith’s shop on York Road at the bottom of Pontefract lane. Yes, York Road deserves special mention as it contained many happy memories for us between the wars. I can still see with affection the Accommodation Road tramcar turning sharply off York Road at The Hope Inn to continue its journey to the Hunslet terminus. Also the regular stream of tramcars on their way to Cross Gates and Halton and passing each other on their way back to town and beyond. The ugly motorway which now runs down the centre makes the memories of the past all the more pleasing.
No vandals, no muggings, there was now’t to rob,
We felt we were rich with a couple of bob.
People were happy in those far off days,
kinder and caring in so many ways.
The milkman the paperboy would whistle and sing
and a night at the pictures was our one mad fling.
Thank you Stan, You’re a star!